A subframe front or rear basically holds the car's running gear (suspension, shock absorber and springs) or struts (combined shock absorber and spring) and the car's drivetrain (drive shaft and hub). A hub or stub axle as it is known by some people is the part of the car the wheels are mounted to via a drive flange. A wishbone, also know as a bottom arm, keeps the hub in place and attached to the sub frame.
With the help of ball joints, inner and outer tie/track rod ends (which are another form of ball joint but attached to the steering system) allow the suspension and drivetrain to move in a controlled manner. The sub frame must never move at any time in order to keep the geometry of the front of the vehicle locked safely in place and the timing of all these steering and suspension components correct that they will never crash into one another and/or hit the body of the vehicle thus keeping us safe on the roads as we travel from A to B, amongst other cars/vans/jeeps, trucks and motorbikes, never mind people and buildings.
The Renault Megane - all models, 3,4 and 5 door - Scenic and Grand Scenic from 2003 onwards to the new model just released, have two large bushes which locate the front subframe on the car. These bushes are pressed into the subframe behind the steering rack and accurately locate the subframe in place stopping any form of movement caused by vibration, knocks or bangs in every day use.
These bushes break down with old age or high use causing movement and MOT/NCT test failure. You can't buy these bushes from Renault alone, instead you must buy a complete subframe which has the two bushes in it for £400+ .
Until recently this was the only means of purchasing these bushings, but replacement bushings are now available through Commonsense Car Parts Ltd (www.commonsensecarparts.com)
26/06/2013
09/06/2013
Local Mechanic vs Giant Manufacturers
Most vehicle manufacturers have been
building cars, vans, trucks for up to one hundred years now - Ford from the
early 1900s, Mercedes, BMW, Fiat and most of the other makes for 60/70/80 years. In that time they have become smart, wise
even, to what is prone to breaking down, what is prone to wear fast, and what is
vital to keep the car moving. They are also
fully aware that maintenance is the key to keeping our vehicles on the road
efficiently.
Most people do not realise that cars like
human beings, animals, food, everything in the world are constantly evolving. The manufacturers have picked up on this and are
constantly trying to adapt their products, produce them more efficiently. All the time, to keep up with this, the
manufacturers of petroleum, gas, petrol, diesel, motion lotion - call it what
you will - are also working hard to keep their products more efficient, more
environmentally friendly, cost-efficient, cost-effective to produce, and in
doing so they must all work together very closely, in particular in areas where
oil is a vital ingredient to keep an engine, gearbox, differential/back axle
all in tiptop condition. In the last 20
years semi synthetic and fully synthetic oils have come on the market. A lot of
people have no idea what these are as they may have no interest. As long as their car takes them from a to b, that’s
all that matters.
Now it’s a different story for
the many people who never service their cars. Others only service their cars
maybe once a year. One particular engine – the DV6 1.6 engine found in all Peugeots
and Citroens from 98 to present (it’s also available in most 1.6 diesel Fords,
Mazdas and Volvos since 2004 forwards) is supposed to be serviced every 3500 to
5000 miles with the correct oil, not just any diesel engine oil. And a lot of the time a genuine oil filter
from the manufacturer Ford or Peugeot or Citroen should be used. When a turbo is been changed on these vehicles
there is a strict code of conduct that needs to be followed in order to add to
the longevity of the turbo. Cleaning of
this engine entirely, including the hydraulic buckets attached the tappets and
nearly every area accessible to oil needs to be cleaned thoroughly. Peugeot, which is the manufacturer of this DV6
engine, say a 5 hour deep clean is needed, along with replacement with new
parts of the oil feed and oil return pipes, including new banjo bolts and sump
gauze. If these conditions are not
followed strictly the new turbo will not last long. Again the manufacturer of
this engine knows this and advises that the troubleshooting and servicing of
these vehicles is carried out by the network of main dealers they have
throughout the country. This work for
their own people in their dealerships is a revenue creator for all involved,
making life harder for the small-time mechanic.
Modern cars are evolving all the
time, with more and more electronic sensors everywhere that pick up faults
within the cars system, and control modules that maintain the use of many
components throughout the vehicle – ABS system, airbag system, electric windows,
air-conditioning etc. These main dealers,
or network of agents attached to the manufacturers, have this software
equipment knowledge and experience of finding these faults and eliminating them. Smaller local mechanics may not have the
equipment, knowledge or money to bring themselves up to speed with every
manufacturer’s capabilities. Then there
is also the care of these vehicles’ suspension and drivetrain components, of
which there are a great many in every vehicle.
Peugeot again have their own suspension
system on both sides at the front of every car in their 407 model range from
2002 onwards. This unique system, made up of an aluminium upright (known as a
hub carrier) held between a top and bottom wishbone, has a bushing at the very
bottom, just where it meets the bottom wishbone which is prone for breaking
down quite fast. You could not buy this
bush from Peugeot on its own - instead you must buy the complete hub carrier at
€360+/£300+. Only recently a company in
Northern Ireland, called KCar Manufacturing, began to make a much a cheaper and
stronger replacement for the 407 bush, without the need to buy the hub carrier. This bush is now available to order exclusively
from Commonsense Car Parts (www.commonsensecarparts.com)
at €50+ VAT each. A whole range of other
replacement components can be found on our website.
14/10/2011
Reconditioned vs Remanufactured - what's the difference?
What’s the difference between a reconditioned turbo and a remanufactured turbo?
Reconditioning involves fixing up your own turbo i.e. it is a repair job. This concentrates on fixing the problem with your turbo, only the faulty part is removed, and you get back an old turbo with the fault fixed. This is usually done by a mechanic or some other mechanically minded person, and in a workshop/garage environment. The main problem with this is that it is still an old turbo, with the potential to experience many more age-related problems. Reconditioning simply extends the useful life of your turbo, rather than giving it a whole new life. As well as this, seals have to be broken and replaced as part of the job, and the non-sterile environment could compromise the future efficiency of your turbo.
Remanufacturing means a turbo has been returned to a remanufacturing plant, fully broken down into its component parts and each part is then cleaned and inspected. If the housing is intact it will be used again, if not it will be replaced. The same then goes for each individual component- if it is in perfect condition it will be used again, if not, it will be replaced. This is done in a sterile engineering environment,
When you buy a remanufactured turbo, you are buying a product that is as close to a new turbo as it can be. It is done on an exchange basis – your own turbo is then sent back to the manufacturing plant so the components can be used to remanufacture a turbo for the next customer. In that way you get a good as new turbo for much less than the cost of a brand new one.
When you buy your turbo from Commonsense Car Parts Limited you are buying a turbo remanufactured to ISO9001 standards with a 12 month manufacturer’s warranty. Visit us at http://www.commonsensecarparts.com/ to request a quote. The same high standard and minimum 12 month warranty applies to all remanufactured car parts we supply – including steering racks, steering pumps, steering columns, brake callipers, alternators, starters, fuel pumps.
19/08/2011
Don't d v 8 from these instructions when fitting your DV6 Turbo
Turbo Part No. 753420-4, 49173-07502/07503/07504/07505/ 07506/07507
Engine codes: 1.6HDI DV6TED4/ DV6UTED Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, Mazda and others
To those in the motor trade, the mechanical repair field, main dealer suppliers and end users (Joe Soaps): this DV6 engine is a bit of a diva - if you don't treat her right she simply won't perform. She's highly sensitive and demands only the finest oil (5W/30), regular pampering (servicing every 3500 to 5000 miles), and will be quick to throw a tantrum if she feels in any way mistreated. Our diva demands a specialised diet- none of your fast food (cheap or inferior oil) - she wants to keep in the best of condition, and poor quality oil and failure to service the engine regularly will result in a build up of carbon (best described as 'killer sludge') and she will be so unhappy she won't think twice about taking the turbo, EGR valve or oil pump out of commission, at a mighty price to you. (And don't even think of starving her of oil (letting oil levels go low) - if your engine is starved she will simply destroy all around her)
Once the damage is done, and the killer sludge has invaded your engine, its almost impossible to eradicate it. Once in it can hide in the smallest crevices, darkest deepest oil galleries, from the hydraulic tablets in the head to the oil lift pipe found in the sump - nowhere is safe. This can cause ongoing problems as even if you replace a component such as a turbo or EGR valve with a high quality replacement, it will be prone to picking up traces of the killer sludge from the engine and its life expectancy will be reduced.
It is extremely important that you read the fitting instructions supplied by us before fitting your turbo. Failure to do so will result in premature failure and you will be declined in the event of a warranty claim.
The PSA 1.6HDi, DV6TED4 engine is a highly sophisticated low emission, high power diesel unit. It is used in many different applications; Citroen, Ford, Mazda, Mini, Peugeot and Volvo.
Due to the engine being clean and powerful, it is designed to operate at high temperatures, which demands the very best lubricants. These lubricants must be maintained in peak condition and PSA have fitted an in-line oil filter to the turbo and an integral oil cooler/oil filter to this engine to ensure this.
Reports in the field indicate that if the engine has been operated with the oil level below normal limits, this may potentially cause a high concentration of carbon in the oil. This may then lead to blockage of the in-line filter, oil cooler and main oil filter, which will eventually bring on premature turbo failure. The vacuum pump may also suffer from this same type of contamination.
However, due to its high operating speeds (230,000 revs per minute) the turbo will usually be the first to show signs of damage. This can happen from 30,000 miles onwards if the oil level and correct oil change intervals/procedure have not been adhered to.
Experience to date suggests that the carbon build up in this application is particularly difficult to remove.
To try to eliminate the potential for further turbo failure, the following MUST be undertaken by the garage, in addition to the normal recommended turbo fitting instructions:
1) Remove the engine sump and check oil pump pick up strainer, oil pump, and all oil galleries for carbon contamination
2)If heavy carbon deposits are identified fit new oil pump, oil pump pick up strainer and clean all oil galleries.
2)If heavy carbon deposits are identified fit new oil pump, oil pump pick up strainer and clean all oil galleries.
3)Fit a new oil feed pipe, oil feed connectors and oil drainpipes and hoses.
4)Remove the gauze filter that is in the new banjo bolt that secures pipe to block.
5)Remove oil cooler and oil filter assembly and clean thoroughly.
6)Remove intercooler, pipes and hoses remove residual oil.
7)Remove the vacuum pump and check for debris/carbon deposits and clean/replace as necessary.
8)Remove the Rocker Cover/Cam Box clean all carbon and sludge deposits from the cover, breather( where fitted) and associated valve gear.
9)Check the Particulate Filter and Cat are not blocked, replace if found to be heavily contaminated with oil from the failed turbo.
10)Clean the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve, induction manifold and all associated pipe work and ensure that the E.G.R. is functioning correctly.
11)A fully synthetic LOW SAPS 5w/30 oil must to be used.
12)Change engine oil after 200 miles and then every 3/ 5000 miles.
13)Ensure that the particulate filter is regenerated frequently and is not blocked. At least one 50 mile continuous journey every month.
14)Check the fuel injector gaskets are not damaged, replace as necessary.
15)Where turbo oil feed pipe bolts to engine block, blow through engine block to clear debris from the failed turbo and any carbon/sludge preferably using a cleaner before the oil pump is refitted.
16)Leave the oil feed pipe detached at the turbo end, crank the engine over without firing until clean oil is flowing from the pipe. It is convenient to catch the oil in a plastic bag or container. When clean oil is flowing connect the pipe to the turbo.
17)Check oil flow:
a) Fit turbo, leave oil return pipe disconnected.
b) Attach an extended oil return pipe and feed into a container.
c) Start engine, idle for 60 seconds and switch off engine.
d) Oil delivery should show at least 0.3 litres of oil.
e) Repeat test to confirm flow is correct.
f) Ensure during the test the engine is not run below minimum oil level
g) Change oil and filter after 20 miles and then after 200 miles as in step 12)
In some instances even after carrying out these instructions not all of the carbon/ sludge deposits will have been removed resulting in further turbo failure. In these instances the turbo will NOT be covered by the warranty as the failure is not due to a faulty component but failure due to external factors.
In life most of us know there are no guarantees - give yourself the best chance of your turbo surviving by following each and every one of the steps above and double checking to make sure all these steps have been followed. Cutting corners or skipping steps with such a sensitive piece of equipment is just not worth the risk. Your warranty is only as good as your fitting of the turbo allows it to be.
Footnote: The only 100% cure to prevent premature turbo failure is to fit a new engine.We sell this turbo with a 12 month warranty but it's a warranty for parts and workmanship, and doesn't cover damage or failure caused by your failure to follow the fitting instructions and have your vehicle regularly serviced.
Commonsense Car Parts
09/08/2011
Carbon build up - killing the vital organs of your car
Unless you are mechanically minded and understand the workings of an engine and the dire need to use the right oils in it, you will find it hard to comprehend the horrific consequences to your engine and many of the components bolted on to it, to aid its performance, of using the wrong oil, or starving your engine of oil.
Think of it like this. Your engine is like your body. It has many components to make it work more efficiently - your oil pump is like your heart, your EGR valve is like your lungs filtering the fuel it takes in, the alternator is a bit like your digestive system - keeping the batteries charged.
Your car needs a balanced diet to run at its most efficient - as the saying goes you are what you eat. Cheap and inferior oils are like the fast food of the motor industry - over time in much the same way as your arteries will clog with cholesterol, the carbon clogs up the oil galleries throughout the engine, oil pump, EGR valve and turbo. Eventually this will cause a total blockage and give your engine a 'heart attack'. As with human beings this heart attack could be minor and affect any of a number of areas - such as the oil pump, turbo charger, EGR valve. If your oil pump fails your engine will most likely sieze - the vehicle equivalent of a fatal myocardic episode (okay okay - heart attack then!)
Your particulated filter (PTF) is like your endocrine system (liver, kidneys, lymph glands) - it provides ongoing filtration of all the toxins that otherwise would clog up the cars system.
In your average journey your engine is probably turning over at 1500-2500 revolutions per minute. I'm not even going to calculate how many times your engine turns over in a half hour journey - lets just say its a lot. In much the same way as you would eat properly before doing a marathon, and would make sure you topped up with nourishing food and fluids along the way, its vital that your engine has a steady flow of proper good quality oils to make sure it performs at its optimum, remains well lubricated and isnt left exhausted by trying to cope with the amount of carbon being produced.
Most manufacturers are designing engines now to produce a lower carbon footprint (emission output) - this means that as the carbon has to go somewhere, if its not going outside the engine, its staying inside. So the better the quality of the oil, the less carbon is produced, and so the less stays in your engine. To help your engine help you, its vital to have your engine serviced on a regular basis with the right oils.
Poor 'food' for your car will lead to poor results, and over the longer term possibly fatal engine problems - its worth the extra few pence to put the proper quality and grade of oils in your car to keep it in prime condition. After all its better to fork out a few quid for some good oil now, rather than having to spend several hundred on a replacement turbo.
http://www.commonsensecarparts.com/
http://www.airbagsireland.com/
Think of it like this. Your engine is like your body. It has many components to make it work more efficiently - your oil pump is like your heart, your EGR valve is like your lungs filtering the fuel it takes in, the alternator is a bit like your digestive system - keeping the batteries charged.
Your car needs a balanced diet to run at its most efficient - as the saying goes you are what you eat. Cheap and inferior oils are like the fast food of the motor industry - over time in much the same way as your arteries will clog with cholesterol, the carbon clogs up the oil galleries throughout the engine, oil pump, EGR valve and turbo. Eventually this will cause a total blockage and give your engine a 'heart attack'. As with human beings this heart attack could be minor and affect any of a number of areas - such as the oil pump, turbo charger, EGR valve. If your oil pump fails your engine will most likely sieze - the vehicle equivalent of a fatal myocardic episode (okay okay - heart attack then!)
Your particulated filter (PTF) is like your endocrine system (liver, kidneys, lymph glands) - it provides ongoing filtration of all the toxins that otherwise would clog up the cars system.
In your average journey your engine is probably turning over at 1500-2500 revolutions per minute. I'm not even going to calculate how many times your engine turns over in a half hour journey - lets just say its a lot. In much the same way as you would eat properly before doing a marathon, and would make sure you topped up with nourishing food and fluids along the way, its vital that your engine has a steady flow of proper good quality oils to make sure it performs at its optimum, remains well lubricated and isnt left exhausted by trying to cope with the amount of carbon being produced.
Most manufacturers are designing engines now to produce a lower carbon footprint (emission output) - this means that as the carbon has to go somewhere, if its not going outside the engine, its staying inside. So the better the quality of the oil, the less carbon is produced, and so the less stays in your engine. To help your engine help you, its vital to have your engine serviced on a regular basis with the right oils.
Poor 'food' for your car will lead to poor results, and over the longer term possibly fatal engine problems - its worth the extra few pence to put the proper quality and grade of oils in your car to keep it in prime condition. After all its better to fork out a few quid for some good oil now, rather than having to spend several hundred on a replacement turbo.
http://www.commonsensecarparts.com/
http://www.airbagsireland.com/
08/08/2011
Why does my airbag light come on when I turn my ignition on?
Every car that has an airbag system (which is nearly every car since the year 2000) has a small airbag symbol, or an airbag light as its called in the dashboard/speedometer/clock area. When you turn your ignition switch on this light should illuminate for 5 seconds only, before going out, along with your other ignition lights (oil, engine etc). This means your airbag system is armed should you have an accident and be in need of your airbags. Basically they will inflate as required, and your seatbelts (which are linked into your airbag system) will tighten up holding you in your seat stopping you from flying forward through the windscreen.
If your airbag light is either on permanently or doesnt come on at all, it means there is one or more faults in your airbag system. No matter how hard your car is hit, your airbags will simply not blow - as I tell people, even if its hit by a jumbo jet they still won't blow. Its a bit like trying to turn your TV on with no fuse in the plug. Too many people have dismissed this light staying on as of no importance. It's only now that NCT laws have changed (since 2009) causing your vehicle to fail its test if this light either doesnt come on at all or stays on, that people are starting to investigate whats wrong.
In some cases with a second hand car when the light does not come at all they find that it has been permanently blocked off e.g a blob of black paint or some black insulating tape has been put between the perspex screen and the actual light so you don't see that its permanently lit. This was a common trick used by rogue vehicle repair people to allow them to cut corners, and keep the overall cost of repairing a vehicle for sale down. In most cases this may simply have been because the second hand airbag kit they purchased came with the wrong airbag module (the brains or control house of the airbag system). Over the years the prices of these have gone up and down and today you can still pay up to €600 for one e.g for a Kia, Hyundai or Honda. Or they may simply not have wanted to replace the airbags at all and will have done a patch up job.
The reason the light would be on in the first place in any vehicle is due to some sort of impact - this can vary from a severe road accident where the airbags and seatbelts have blown, to simply hitting a pothole or kerb hard. You may not even realise you have blown your seatbelts as they may work mechanically, i.e they will roll in and out, but if the light is on chances are they have blown electronically and this effectively breaks the circuit of the airbag system, so the light is your warning that your airbags will not blow up when needed until you get this problem sorted. In many ways your airbag system is a bit like old fashioned Christmas tree lights where when one blows the whole set won't light. If any single component of your airbag system is blown, the rest may as well be as they will not function. So assuming you only have a problem if your actual airbags have blown is a common misconception .
If your light comes on you will need to know what is damaged and what needs to be replaced. Your best bet is to go to your main dealer as they will have the diagnostic equipment, the software to read the faults and the experience to know how to troubleshoot any issues. You may see people advertising that they can offer a diagnostic on your airbag system, and every other joe soap seems to have diagnostic equipment in their garage or shed, but I would recommend you only go to a reputable garage for this service - e.g if you are in the Ballina area we can recommend Luke Donnellan - one of the best in the country. There are others and if you contact us we may be able to direct you to someone reputable in your own location. If you are not sure then your main dealer is still your best bet. You will get a diagnostic report which they can interpret and which will indicate which airbags and/or seatbelts may need replacing. Then you need to go to an airbag specialist to get replacement airbag components which can include your driver and passenger airbags, seat bags, roof bags, knee bags, seatbelts, and even a new airbag module. In some cases your own airbag module can be repaired (reprogrammed) - the crash data or the cause of the light going on will be stored on it and reprogramming removes the stored data and puts it back to how it was before at a fraction of the cost of a new one.
Airbags Specialist
Replacement car parts - new and remanufactured
If your airbag light is either on permanently or doesnt come on at all, it means there is one or more faults in your airbag system. No matter how hard your car is hit, your airbags will simply not blow - as I tell people, even if its hit by a jumbo jet they still won't blow. Its a bit like trying to turn your TV on with no fuse in the plug. Too many people have dismissed this light staying on as of no importance. It's only now that NCT laws have changed (since 2009) causing your vehicle to fail its test if this light either doesnt come on at all or stays on, that people are starting to investigate whats wrong.
In some cases with a second hand car when the light does not come at all they find that it has been permanently blocked off e.g a blob of black paint or some black insulating tape has been put between the perspex screen and the actual light so you don't see that its permanently lit. This was a common trick used by rogue vehicle repair people to allow them to cut corners, and keep the overall cost of repairing a vehicle for sale down. In most cases this may simply have been because the second hand airbag kit they purchased came with the wrong airbag module (the brains or control house of the airbag system). Over the years the prices of these have gone up and down and today you can still pay up to €600 for one e.g for a Kia, Hyundai or Honda. Or they may simply not have wanted to replace the airbags at all and will have done a patch up job.
The reason the light would be on in the first place in any vehicle is due to some sort of impact - this can vary from a severe road accident where the airbags and seatbelts have blown, to simply hitting a pothole or kerb hard. You may not even realise you have blown your seatbelts as they may work mechanically, i.e they will roll in and out, but if the light is on chances are they have blown electronically and this effectively breaks the circuit of the airbag system, so the light is your warning that your airbags will not blow up when needed until you get this problem sorted. In many ways your airbag system is a bit like old fashioned Christmas tree lights where when one blows the whole set won't light. If any single component of your airbag system is blown, the rest may as well be as they will not function. So assuming you only have a problem if your actual airbags have blown is a common misconception .
If your light comes on you will need to know what is damaged and what needs to be replaced. Your best bet is to go to your main dealer as they will have the diagnostic equipment, the software to read the faults and the experience to know how to troubleshoot any issues. You may see people advertising that they can offer a diagnostic on your airbag system, and every other joe soap seems to have diagnostic equipment in their garage or shed, but I would recommend you only go to a reputable garage for this service - e.g if you are in the Ballina area we can recommend Luke Donnellan - one of the best in the country. There are others and if you contact us we may be able to direct you to someone reputable in your own location. If you are not sure then your main dealer is still your best bet. You will get a diagnostic report which they can interpret and which will indicate which airbags and/or seatbelts may need replacing. Then you need to go to an airbag specialist to get replacement airbag components which can include your driver and passenger airbags, seat bags, roof bags, knee bags, seatbelts, and even a new airbag module. In some cases your own airbag module can be repaired (reprogrammed) - the crash data or the cause of the light going on will be stored on it and reprogramming removes the stored data and puts it back to how it was before at a fraction of the cost of a new one.
Airbags Specialist
Replacement car parts - new and remanufactured
07/08/2011
Vanishing Irish Motor Trade
As most Irish Motor Traders, Motor Factors and Vehicle repair people will know, the Irish Motor trade is shrinking on a weekly basis. Is it because people are not spending their money full stop, is it because vehicle finance and small time lending are not available or is it simply because vehicles are so highly advanced that they don't give trouble any more? The list could be endless.
One or two issues are very evident - the cost of running vehicles, the fact that families realise they don't need and can't afford, two cars anymore, the cost of living overtaking the vanity that underpinned a large section of the 4x4, BMW, Lexus and Audi market.
Escalating fuel prices, higher insurance costs, and reckless lack of maintenance of our chariots in the last 10 years as the purchase of a new, higher spec, sparklier motor was only ever just a loan away has lead to massive repair bills by people now desperate to keep their ageing motor on the road.
For example the turbo massacre normally caused by lack of oil, dirty oil, or the wrong or poor quality oil can result in a bill of €1000 to €1500 for the average family saloon, as they find themselves needing to replace this vital part. The Peugeot/Citroen 1.6 Hdi family (407, 307, C4 and C5), Volvo S40, V50, Mazda 3 and Ford Focus from 04 to date, all use the same turbo. From reputeable suppliers this can cost €550 plus €120 for the fitting kit, never mind the oil and air filter and 2-3 hours labour. And thats for a remanufactured turbo, so you can double that if you want the brand new replacement turbo.
Clutch failure now involves the replacement of your flywheel. For the Mazda 6 2l Diesel, a very popular car, this will cost from reputeable motor factors €600 plus VAT for cars up to March 2005. For newer than March 2005 you could double that price. The clutch kit itself could be costing you €400 plus VAT.
For some people these figures represent a 6 month supply of vitamin G (the black stuff) and dirty smokes, and walking to the pub seems a small price to pay. But on a more serious note for others these sort of figures can't even be considered, once the mortgage, household bills and the weekly food have been paid for. As you'll have seen recently 800,000 people in Ireland have less than €80 a month to live on after essential bills.
Car sales were for a time artificially inflated by the Government scrappage schemes matched in many cases by manufacturers offers, all in a bid to move stock and keep things going. But any main dealer will tell you that July has seen figures plummet as people simply cannot afford to buy new cars without the help of these deals. Banks aren't helping matters by increasing charges and loan rejections. Even the bank managers themselves are trying to offload their flash motors, and 4 wheel luxury for more practical and economically kept vehicles.
Revenue into the industry is sluggish as people opt to pay their tax quarterly, and their insurance on a monthly basis, to allow them to keep on the road at all.
Its only a matter of time before there is a resurgence in the popularity of car-sharing or car-clubbing as people try to get to work in the most cost effective manner possible. Nobody can blame people for trying to keep the cost of vehicle ownership to a minimum, but the knock on effect on the industry can't help but be felt by already struggling garages, motor factors and mechanics. Its a bit like an angry polo mint (a vicious circle) as these people become statistics in an economy on a downward spiral. The less people spend, the less money is out there, the more people lose their jobs, the less money the average person then has to spend, and so on and so on - where will it all end!!! Are we looking at a car-less future - no wonder the price of Honda 50s has gone through the roof! Time to call 11850.......
One or two issues are very evident - the cost of running vehicles, the fact that families realise they don't need and can't afford, two cars anymore, the cost of living overtaking the vanity that underpinned a large section of the 4x4, BMW, Lexus and Audi market.
Escalating fuel prices, higher insurance costs, and reckless lack of maintenance of our chariots in the last 10 years as the purchase of a new, higher spec, sparklier motor was only ever just a loan away has lead to massive repair bills by people now desperate to keep their ageing motor on the road.
For example the turbo massacre normally caused by lack of oil, dirty oil, or the wrong or poor quality oil can result in a bill of €1000 to €1500 for the average family saloon, as they find themselves needing to replace this vital part. The Peugeot/Citroen 1.6 Hdi family (407, 307, C4 and C5), Volvo S40, V50, Mazda 3 and Ford Focus from 04 to date, all use the same turbo. From reputeable suppliers this can cost €550 plus €120 for the fitting kit, never mind the oil and air filter and 2-3 hours labour. And thats for a remanufactured turbo, so you can double that if you want the brand new replacement turbo.
Clutch failure now involves the replacement of your flywheel. For the Mazda 6 2l Diesel, a very popular car, this will cost from reputeable motor factors €600 plus VAT for cars up to March 2005. For newer than March 2005 you could double that price. The clutch kit itself could be costing you €400 plus VAT.
For some people these figures represent a 6 month supply of vitamin G (the black stuff) and dirty smokes, and walking to the pub seems a small price to pay. But on a more serious note for others these sort of figures can't even be considered, once the mortgage, household bills and the weekly food have been paid for. As you'll have seen recently 800,000 people in Ireland have less than €80 a month to live on after essential bills.
Car sales were for a time artificially inflated by the Government scrappage schemes matched in many cases by manufacturers offers, all in a bid to move stock and keep things going. But any main dealer will tell you that July has seen figures plummet as people simply cannot afford to buy new cars without the help of these deals. Banks aren't helping matters by increasing charges and loan rejections. Even the bank managers themselves are trying to offload their flash motors, and 4 wheel luxury for more practical and economically kept vehicles.
Revenue into the industry is sluggish as people opt to pay their tax quarterly, and their insurance on a monthly basis, to allow them to keep on the road at all.
Its only a matter of time before there is a resurgence in the popularity of car-sharing or car-clubbing as people try to get to work in the most cost effective manner possible. Nobody can blame people for trying to keep the cost of vehicle ownership to a minimum, but the knock on effect on the industry can't help but be felt by already struggling garages, motor factors and mechanics. Its a bit like an angry polo mint (a vicious circle) as these people become statistics in an economy on a downward spiral. The less people spend, the less money is out there, the more people lose their jobs, the less money the average person then has to spend, and so on and so on - where will it all end!!! Are we looking at a car-less future - no wonder the price of Honda 50s has gone through the roof! Time to call 11850.......
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